In Conjunction with Phillips
An Online Auction of Sixty-Six Watches From the Collection of Mark Cho
30th November - 6th December 2022
“These are 16 years of searching for beautiful things. Sometimes I collected ‘the greats’ but most of the time I collected the interesting, the curious and the sublime. A most interesting hour marker here and a perfectly formed case there. A wonderful complication that moved me or a moment of horological history that captured me. What unites all these pieces is that I found beauty and satisfaction in all of them. However, at the end of the day, one person can't keep everything and probably shouldn't anyway. I offer up these pieces: most of my watch collecting over the last 16 years, for the sake of my clothing store: The Armoury, one of the great loves of my life. I wish to trade these many, small, and amazing things, that I have selfishly kept to myself, in pursuit of a single new expansion of The Armoury New York to be enjoyed by my colleagues and my customers. To the future owners of these pieces, I hope they bring you as much joy as they brought me. For new collectors, maybe something here will be a foundational piece for your own collection and for experienced collectors, maybe something from my taste will feel fresh and new to you. I look forward to seeing these timepieces continuing their great journey in good hands with collectors and watch lovers from around the world.
— Mark
P.S. to the winners of this auction: I’d like to custom make you one of The Armoury’s signature garments as a gift, as well. Click here for more details.”
View the Watches In Person
The entire collection is on display at The Armoury Pedder.
Our Hours are Nov 30th - Dec 6th, 12pm to 6pm
307 Pedder Building
12 Pedder Street
Central, Hong Kong
info@thearmoury.com
+852 2810 4990
How to Bid
Please visit the official Phillips page for the auction and click the “Register to Bid” button on the left side of the page. The auction itself is handled by Phillips. All the bid buttons on this site link to the Phillips auction site. This site is a companion site made by Mark and his colleagues and features their photography and Mark’s personal notes and stories about the watches.
Rolex Explorer 114270
"This was my first Rolex. I bought it at Heathrow airport in 2010 while I was shuttling back and forth between London and Hong Kong as I was juggling my newly acquired business, Drake's, with my newly launched business, The Armoury. At the time, Michael Drake, the founder of Drake's, was telling me how the Rolex Explorer was one of his favourite watch designs and it inspired me to seek one out for myself."
Manufacturer: Rolex
Year: Circa 2010
Reference No: 114270
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3130, 31 jewels
Dimensions: 36mm diameter
Rolex Submariner 16800
"The lore of the Submariner looms large and I can't resist its pull. Thanks to a lucky introduction, I bought this watch from its original owner. It happened to be from my birth year and it is my first Submariner."
Manufacturer: Rolex
Year: Circa 1983
Reference No: 16800
Material: Stainless Steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3035, 27 jewels
Dimensions: 40mm diameter
Rolex GMT Master II, “Root Beer”
"I have a friend who is nuts for Root Beer Rolexes and he would talk endlessly about them which eventually rubbed off on me. The Root Beer is a certainly a quirky colour combination but that's what makes it so attractive."
Manufacturer: Rolex
Year: Circa 2004
Reference No: 16713
Material: Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3185, 31 jewels
Dimensions: 40mm diameter
Rolex Day-Date 18038
"Serif and sans-serif roman numeral present very differently and Rolex executed this sans-serif example beautifully. I particularly like the IIII at 4 o'clock. The little pips adjacent to the roman numerals are also a lovely touch. I paired the dusty blue dial with one of The Armoury's navy silk straps to bring out the colour a little more."
Manufacturer: Rolex
Year: Circa 1983
Reference No: 18038
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3055, 27 jewels
Dimensions: 36mm diameter
Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust 17013
"This is an unusual Oysterquartz as almost the entire watch has been replaced by Rolex with original, factory fresh parts. In effect, it is the ship of Theseus thought experiment in watch form. The sharp lines of the Oysterquartz case and bracelet are a joy to behold in this ultra crisp condition."
Manufacturer: Rolex
Year: Circa 1977
Reference No: 17013
Material: Stainless steel and 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Quartz, cal. 5035, 11 jewels
Dimensions: 36mm diameter
Rolex Datejust 16234
"As far as Rolex blue dials go, this one is one of the brightest and liveliest versions. The natural, polished sodalite is a perfect backdrop to the diamond markers, allow them to sparkle but not overwhelm the design."
Manufacturer: Rolex
Year: Circa 2000
Reference No: 16234
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 3135, 31 jewels
Dimensions: 36mm diameter
Laine V38
"This is my first Laine, an impressive combination of classical design elements like Breguet numerals and guilloche enhanced by a very striking shade of blue. Thanks to the guilloche, the colour is especially lively under the light."
Manufacturer: Laine
Year: Circa 2021
Reference No: 213’063
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. VMF 5401, 29 jewels
Dimensions: 38mm diameter
Habring² X SJX
"In the watch journalism world, I admire SJX and his team's coverage the most as it is dense in detail and technical content. I immediately signed up for his first collaboration watch in conjunction with Habring. It was my first dead seconds watch and the Rolex inspired star motif was a lovely touch."
Manufacturer: Habring
Year: Circa 2021
Reference No: 3/50
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. A11MS, 21 jewels
Dimensions: 38.5mm diameter
Grand Seiko 55th Anniversary Historical Collection, the first: 2014 GS “Self-Dater", the second: 2013 44GS, the third: 2015 62GS
"If I were to start collecting Grand Seiko, this would be the ideal way to start. It is comprised of three hard-to-find pieces, among the best re-issues they have ever done, recreating three of their most important designs from the 60's. Delve into the history of each of them as they are all foundational to what Grand Seiko is today."
Manufacturer: Grand Seiko
Year: Circa 2015
Reference No: The first: SBGV009, the second: SBGW047, the third: SBGR095
Material: Stainless Steel
Calibre: The first: quartz, cal. 9F82, 9 jewels; the second: automatic, cal. 9S64, 24 jewels; the third: automatic, cal. 9S65, 35 jewels
Dimensions: The first: 37.2mm diameter, the second: 37.9mm diameter, the third: 37.6mm diameter
Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive, "Snowflake” SBGZ001
"This is an extremely significant piece for Grand Seiko, celebrating 20 years of Spring Drive, Seiko's ingenious quartz-mechnical hybrid movement. At first glance, the stand-out feature is the hand carved case, with each fine line of the case's surface pattern engraved one at a time. The movement cannot be overlooked as well, featuring the top tier handwork of Seiko's Micro Artist Studio, their small-volume artisanal production department. I engraved the back of this piece with “optimism”. I wrote an article about Grand Seiko’s design process for this piece here.
Manufacturer: Grand Seiko
Year: Circa 2019
Reference No: SBGZ001
Material: Platinum
Calibre: Manual, cal. 9R02, 39 jewels
Dimensions: 38.5mm diameter
F.P. Journe Octa Divine
"This watch started for me as a way to have a lovely, small FP Journe. It turned into a storied timepiece that eventually crossed my path with Pierre Halimi, CEO of Journe USA and now a dear friend, and the creation of another important FP Journe watch. I wrote up this whole tale for WatchesbySJX.com.
Manufacturer: F.P. Journe
Year: Circa 2000s
Reference No: 343-D
Material: 18K pink gold
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1300.3, 36 jewels
Dimensions: 36mm diameter
Chanel Monsieur de Chanel
"To me, this watch is highly underrated. My eye is caught first by the Leica-esque font and the heavy, oversized hour window. Then there is the unusual, squat case rendered in Chanel's proprietary beige gold. Finally, the black movement comprised of circle after circle is a visual treat."
Manufacturer: Chanel
Year: Circa 2016
Reference No: H4800
Material: 18K beige gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 1, 30 jewels
Dimensions: 40mm diameter
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia
"This is one of the very first Lange designs when the brand was relaunched and it is a model I deeply wish they still made. Its 34mm diameter belies its impressive heft and confident design. The logo crossing straight across from 9 to 3 o'clock while the date and sub seconds sit at 12 and 6 speaks loudly that in terms of design, Lange wants to go its own way.”
Manufacturer: A. Lange & Söhne
Year: Circa 2000s
Reference No: 105.022
Model Name: Saxonia
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. L941.3, 30 jewels
Dimensions: 34mm diameter
Vacheron Constantin 4072
"Of all the famous vintage two register chronographs, the Vacheron 4072 is my favourite. Every aspect of the watch from case to hands to markings to movement all point to a carefully conceived and realized design. The gold-on-gold configuration of this one is particularly nice against tan, olive and brown straps, shirts and jackets"
Manufacturer: Vacheron Constantin
Year: 1944
Reference No: 4072
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 13”- 434, 19 jewels
Dimensions: 35mm diameter
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
"A weird and wonderful take on two-tone that I am surprised has never been resurrected. The body is mostly yellow gold and the accents are in white gold. I love that it's a 36mm quartz as it retains the distinctive sleek proportions of the original Royal Oak 5402. Smaller diameter mechanical movement Royal Oaks are unable to maintain the same proportions as the vintage original due to the thickness of their movements relative to diameter."
Manufacturer: Audemars Piguet
Year: 1986
Reference No: 56023AC
Model Name: Royal Oak Quartz
Material: 18K yellow gold and white gold
Calibre: Quartz, cal. 2506, 10 jewels
Dimensions: 35mm diameter
Universal Compur
"An early Universal chronograph with particularly beautiful gold printing on an aged black dial. The skeletonized hands interact with the complex dial markings underneath in a visually fascinating way that always drew me to have a second and third look."
Manufacturer: Universal
Year: Circa 1936
Reference No: 5656
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 283, 17 jewels
Dimensions: 32mm diameter
Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800
"I bought this almost ten years ago and it has been a truly faithful companion. In the early days, I often wore it to the Pitti Uomo mens' tradeshow in Florence, Italy, when people didn't really care about these things. It seemed like the right watch to wear at the time, subtle at first glance, striking upon inspection. It remains the most beautiful Nautilus I have ever seen."
Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: Circa 1990
Reference No: 3800/001
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 335 SC, 29 jewels
Dimensions: 37.5mm diameter
Patek Philippe Calatrava, “Clous de Paris”
"A particularly delicious combination of rose gold case and cream dial contrasting against Patek's iconic sharp Clous-de-Paris bezel, dauphine hands and stick markers."
Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: Circa 1991
Reference No: 3802/200
Material: 18K pink gold
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 310 SC, 29 jewels
Dimensions: 33mm diameter
Patek Philippe Calatrava
"A beautifully executed offshoot of Patek's hobnail family of watches. I love that it has white gold sans serif applied markers instead of the usual black serif printing. It is a very modern, minimalist interpretation of a classic design. The porcelain dial and display caseback are two other great touches."
Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: Circa 1999
Reference No: 3919SG-001
Material: 18K white gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 215, 18 jewels
Dimensions: 33mm diameter
Patek Philippe Calatrava 570
"The 570 is one of the most perfect watches ever. It is more than an up-sized version of the 96 and has a very different look due to the changes in its proportions. Despite its monochromatic appearance, it is actually rich in subtle shades of champagne due to its age and its white gold composition."
Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: Circa 1961
Reference No: 570
Material: 18K white gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 27 SC, 18 jewels
Dimensions: 35.5mm diameter
Patek Philippe Calatrava 2555
"The 2555 is all about heft. The screwback case and box crystal gives the watch a pleasant thickness. The hands are oversized and the markers have an unusual ridge pattern that add a distinct twinkle. Also, the watch is double signed at 12 o'clock, another seldom seen detail. One of my favourite vintage Pateks ever. Every time I put it on, it just felt right."
Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: Circa 1955
Reference No: 2555
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 27 SC, 18 jewels
Dimensions: 31mm diameter
Patek Philippe 3940
"Of all the great variations of the 3940, this one is my favourite: yellow gold, first series, distinguished by its sunken subdials and wide, squat Patek logo typeface."
Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: Circa 1986
Reference No: 3940
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 240 Q, 27 jewels
Dimensions: 36mm diameter
Patek Philippe 3566
"I imagine this as the most perfect tuxedo watch possible. Its slim profile and compact size allow the incredible and eye catching textures of the piece to stay on the right side of beautiful but not ostentatious. It is so well preserved that I never had the heart to cut the bracelet to allow my wrist to fit it. It is quite literally in unworn condition."
Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: Circa 1972
Reference No: 3566/1
Material: 18K white gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 175, 18 jewels
Dimensions: 28mm width x 28mm length
Patek Philippe Calatrava 2457
"I love all things connecting back to the 96. Its successor, the 2457 is no exception. The slim, clear shape of the hands and markers and the detailed minute track remind me of someone who would take pride in precision."
Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: Circa 1949
Reference No: 2457
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 12”’27 SC, 18 jewels
Dimensions: 31mm diameter
Vacheron Constantin Historique
"I was very drawn to the unusual case of this Vacheron. It is almost a little baroque in style because of its combination of round case with very sharp, pointed lugs and an angular shoulder where the lugs meet the case. It sits quite flat on the wrist which suits its small diameter well, allowing it to wear a little bigger than you might expect."
Manufacturer: Vacheron Constantin
Year: Circa 2000's
Reference No: 31045/000J-3
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 1132-1, 20 jewels
Dimensions: 32mm diameter
Breguet 1775
"I love all aspects of this Breuget but my favourite part of this Breguet is the markings on the enamel dial. The numerals are slight and painterly and the minute track is comprised of stars, diamonds and a flower-like motif. It also features a beautifully engraved rotor"
Manufacturer: Breguet
Year: Circa 2000
Reference No: 1775
Model Name: Classique
Material: PlatinumCalibre: Automatic, cal. 591B, 25 jewels
Dimensions: 36mm diameter
Breguet Classique
"The layout of the elements on this Breguet really catch my eye, with the moonphase at 10 o'clock, the logo at 2 o'clock and the sub-seconds at 6 o'clock. Combined with the sea of guilloche that the complications float on, I can't help but think of old pocket watches, beautifully miniaturized."
Manufacturer: Breguet
Year: Circa 1990s
Model Name: Classique
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 818/5, 18 jewels
Dimensions: 32mm diameter
Vacheron Constantin 4348
"I have to thank Christian Selmoni for bringing this piece to my attention. It is an almost completely aluminium pocket watch with not only the case, dial and hands but also most parts of the movements being made in this lightweight metal. In the hand, it is almost ethereal and you can't help but smile when you handle it. These pocket watches were made by Vacheron for the Northern Aluminium Company as gifts for their most important employees and customers."
Manufacturer: Vacheron Constantin
Year: Circa 1956
Reference No: 4348
Material: Aluminium
Calibre: Manual, cal. 439/7, 17 jewels
Dimensions: 44mm diameter
Baltic Bicompax Pulso
"This is my first Baltic watch and I really admire what they have done, especially in conjunction with Revolution and the Rake. The considered mixture of dial finishes and the excellent typography and graphic design allows the watch to punch well beyond its weight."
Manufacturer: Baltic
Year: Circa 2021
Reference No: 123/250
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. ST1901, 17 jewels
Dimensions: 36.5mm diameter
Bulgari Octo Finissimo "Nuclear Option"
"I am a huge admirer of the Octo Finissimo series and the work of its designer: Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. It amazes me how he pushes the limits both aesthetically and in the case of this ultra-thin chronograph, also technically. I was delighted to see the taste of Wei Koh mixed with the iconic Octo to create this radical design."
Manufacturer: Bulgari
Year: Circa 2021
Reference No: BGO 43C XT CHGMT
Material: Black ceramic
Calibre: Automatic, cal. BVL 318, 37 jewels
Dimensions: 43mm diameter
Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee - Revolution Edition
"I saw another version of this watch on the wrist Carson Chan and I was smitten. Sporty and well balanced with an unusual sector dial and without the date window you would normally find with this movement. Another excellent collaboration between Chopard and Wei Koh and his team."
Manufacturer: Chopard
Year: Circa 2022
Reference No: 168613-3002
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. LUC 96.09L, 29 jewels
Dimensions: 39mm diameter
Daniel Roth Chronograph BB 2147
"I admire Daniel Roth for his incredible originality in design. With the exception of the roman numeral track which is classic Breguet, every element of the design is beautifully idiosyncratic. The lozenge shaped case is full of detail and has a beautiful, heavy feel in the hand. The logo and reference at the very top and bottom of the dial is unusual but perfectly balanced. The hands are bold and graphic, clearly legible and well suited to the overall design. Finally, the colours are a seldom-seen delicate mix of charcoal and cream."
Manufacturer: Daniel Roth
Year: Circa 1990s
Reference No: 2147PT
Material: Platinum
Calibre: Manual, cal. Lemania 2320, 21 jewels
Dimensions: 38mm length x 35mm width
Franck Muller Special Limited Edition Chronograph
"I find this watch serious and thoughtful. It is Franck Mueller's attempt to bring classic 30's to 60's era chronographs into the 90's and it is very well done. I especially love the domed hour markers, the Breguet 12 and 6 and the flat bezel surrounding the dial. In the hand it feels incredibly refined and high quality."
Manufacturer: Franck Muller
Year: Circa 1996
Reference No: 5/50
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. 1874, 17 jewels
Dimensions: 36mm diameter
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Soirée
"I am a huge admirer of Lange's guilloche and I find this Lange 1 to be its ultimate form, having the complex engraved pattern set crisply into the iridescent mother of pearl dial. Just as impressive is the white gold bracelet made by the legendary German jeweler Wellendorff."
Manufacturer: A. Lange & Söhne
Year: Circa 2000s
Reference No: 110.030
Material: 18K white gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. L901.4, 53 jewels
Dimensions: 38.5mm diameter
A. Lange & Söhne Grand Arkade
"Something Lange doesn't get enough credit for is the perfect tone of their blue dials, evoking a rich blue sky. The geometry of the Arkade case is also very attractive, reminiscent of a jewel box. Finally, the well designed caseback with decorated rectangular movement is a testament to Lange's movement design."
Manufacturer: A. Lange & Söhne
Year: Circa 2002
Reference No: 106.027
Material: 18K white gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. L911.4, 30 jewels
Dimensions: 38mm length x 29.5mm width
A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Big Date
"This piece drew me in at first with its beautiful movement, featuring an unusual 3/4 rotor. The dial side reminds me of an attentive assistant - with clear and pragmatic time indices, an oversize date window and lumed hands."
Manufacturer: A. Lange & Söhne
Year: Circa 2000s
Reference No: 308.025
Material: Platinum
Calibre: Automatic, cal. L921.4, 45 jewels
Dimensions: 37mm diameter
Cartier Collection Privée Cartier Paris, Ronde Louis Cartier
"This is my favourite version of Cartier's Ronde, from the Collection Prive, cased in platinum with guilloche and a rosette in the center of the dial. I love the form of this watch. It is surprisingly thin with short, rounded lugs that somehow are both elegant and endearing at the same time."
Manufacturer: Cartier
Year: Circa 2000s
Reference No: 1897G
Material: Platinum
Calibre: Manual, cal. 437MC, 18 jewels
Dimensions: 33mm diameter
Omega Lépine
"I used this as my desk clock for a while. Every few days, I would wind it up and enjoy its ticking while I worked. It is a very elegant looking pocket watch. The grey shimmers nicely under sunlight and the hands are long and shapely. I also love the Art Deco font and the discreet, small Omega logo and sub-seconds markings."
Manufacturer: Omega
Year: Circa 1944
Reference No: CK 374
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal.38.5 LEP T1, 15 jewels
Dimensions: 48mm diameter
Cartier Tank Asymétrique
"Cartier's Asymmetrique is an exercise in beautiful geometry. This modern version carries considerably more heft than previous versions giving it a more broadly appealing, modern size than the vintage original, which feels most at home as a dress watch. The ghostly grey on black dial is a particularly nice touch."
Manufacturer: Cartier
Year: Circa 2020
Reference No: WGTA0042
Material: Platinum
Calibre: Manual, cal. 1917 MC, 19 jewels
Dimensions: 47mm length x 26mm width
Omega Olympic Split-Seconds Chronograph
"Heavy and enjoyable to hold and operate, these Omega split-second chronographs were originally designed for the Olympic games. I love how they emphasized legibility and ergonomics, featuring large pushers and bold typefacing."
Manufacturer: Omega
Year: Circa 1961
Reference No: MG 1155
Material: Stainless Steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. 1130, 21 jewels
Dimensions: 65mm diameter
Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Exotic Reverse Panda
"I love that this is a careful resurrection of a vintage classic, down to the original, and important Valjoux 23 chronograph movement. The chunky, stark dial aesthetic is a sporty 60's look that is somewhat underrepresented in today's market. A great throwback watch."
Manufacturer: Nivada Grenchen
Year: Circa 2021
Reference No: 86018
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. 23VZ, 17 jewels
Dimensions: 38mm diameter
Omega Anniversary Series, Moonwatch "First Omega in Space"
"Years ago, when these things were easier to come by, I had acquired the dial and handset for the special edition Speedmaster made for the Mitsukoshi department store. I had them put into a Speedmaster FOIS (First One in Space) which has a slightly smaller case diameter than the standard Speedmaster. What I love about the Mitsukoshi is that it has a silvered dial and hand set which is much shinier than the usual Speedmaster configuration of white hands on a black dial. I paired it with a black NATO with black hardware to emphasize the effect further."
Manufacturer: Omega
Year: Circa 2019
Reference No: 311.32.40.30.01.001
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. 1861, 18 jewels
Dimensions: 39.7mm diameter
Omega Speedmaster, Alaska Project
"The Speedmaster Alaska Project, like many of the other more obscure Speedy variations, was for many years a watch for hardcore fans of the series. Only in recent years has it become a star in its own right. Without seeing the watch in the metal, it is hard to notice just how white the dial is. It is in effect an Albino Speedy. There are also some fun accessories included, such as the massive red protective cage for operating the watch in cold weather conditions with heavy gloves."
Manufacturer: Omega
Year: Circa 2008
Reference No: 311.32.42.04.001
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. 1861, 18 jewels
Dimensions: 42mm diameter
Longines Heritage Classic Limited Edition For HODINKEE
"A great collaboration between Longines and Hodinkee, yielding a subtle and highly wearable modern watch that draws inspiration from Longines Chronometers of the past. I especially love the two-tone finish of the dial and the well-made bracelet."
Manufacturer: Longines
Year: Circa 2021
Reference No: L2.828.4.72.2
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. L893.4, 27 jewels
Dimensions: 38.5mm diameter
Seiko 1965 Diver’s Re-Creation
"Seiko does a particularly good job with strong, angular shapes and reliable, sturdy dive watches. This one captures all the above. The rubberized strap is especially well done, too."
Manufacturer: Seiko
Year: Circa 2020
Reference No: SLA037
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 8L55, 37 jewels
Dimensions: 39.9mm diameter
Omega Seamaster Chronograph
"An early Seamaster with a particularly nice set of hands and pointed hour markers. I also like how the 3, 6 and 9 markers have been precisely cut by the subdials. A lovely example of classic Omega chronograph design."
Manufacturer: Omega
Year: Circa 1963
Reference No: 105.001-62
Material: Stainless Steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. 321, 17 jewels
Dimensions: 35mm diameter
Omega 1894 Centenary Collection, Japanese Market
"This watch, from Omega's 100th Anniversary series, is something of a forgotten treasure and I am always surprised it doesn't draw more attention. The movement is a NOS 30mm Caliber 269 that Omega brought out from their archives and refinished for their historic milestone. All the watches in this series were re-imaginings of classic Omega Chronometers made to modern standards. This variation is among my favourites of the series: a Japan market special featuring a striking blue ring upon which the sans serif Roman numerals sit."
Manufacturer: Omega
Year: Circa 1999
Reference No: 5950.31.03
Material: 18K pink gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 269, 17 jewels
Dimensions: 35.5mm diameter
Omega
"This 30's era Omega deserves to be seen and handled as it is a very executed and nuanced design. It is oversized for its time, and wears broad and thin in a very pleasant way. It has a lovely, tall box crystal that suits the watch perfectly and allows space for the large and beautiful blued hands. Also, notice the carefully arranged square and rectangular pips in the minute track, helping to fill the gap between the sub-seconds and the edge of the case."
Manufacturer: Omega
Year: Circa 1939
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. 26.5 SOB T.2, 15 jewels
Dimensions: 37.5mm diameter
Omega Non Magnetic
"This is the most well preserved pre 1950's watch I have ever owned. Beyond the condition, though, there are so many wonderful details to admire, such as the classic Omega logo, the unusual numerals, the blocky hands and the polished, sloping bezel surrounding the domed crystal. I have never seen another one like it."
Manufacturer: Omega
Year: Circa 1941
Reference No: CK 2112
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. 26.5 SOB T2, 15 jewels
Dimensions: 30mm diameter
IWC Portuguese Jubilee 125th Anniversary Limited Edition
"Sometimes I buy watches because the movements are just so compelling. This is one of them. Ben Clymer was visiting The Armoury in New York wearing the steel version of this piece and I was so impressed with its history. It is a recreation of the original IWC Portuguese down to the movement. Given its size, it would be a great watch to teach a watchmaking class with as the gear train and other parts are so clearly and beautifully laid out."
Manufacturer: IWC
Year: Circa 1993
Reference No: 5441
Material: Platinum
Calibre: Manual, cal. 9828, 19 jewels
Dimensions: 42mm diameter
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, "Juventus 1897-1997 Cento anni di Juve"
"This was a special edition made for Juventus F.C. and it is one of the most beautiful configurations of the Reverso I have ever seen. Purely monochromatic with triangular applied markers and only arabic numerals at the cardinal points, allowing it to be visually more symmetric than Reversos that feature only arabic indices. I love the stripe down the middle of the hands as a little finishing touch."
Manufacturer: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year: Circa 1997
Reference No: 275.3.62
Material: 18K white gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 822, 21 jewels
Dimensions: 42mm length x 26mm width
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande Taille, “Del Centenario Torino F.C.”
"This was a special edition made for Torino F.C.: it features burgundy numerals on a rose gold case and I paired it with a tan strap to emphasize the red tones of the watch. The case is JLC's discontinued Grand Taille size which remains, in my opinion, the best and most balanced size they ever made. Large enough to be substantial but small enough to be elegant."
Manufacturer: Jaeger-LeCoultre
Year: Circa 2008
Reference No: 270.2.62
Material: 18K pink gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 822, 21 jewels
Dimensions: 42mm length x 26mm width
Daniel Roth Le Sentier
"Daniel Roth's aesthetic, reimagined as a sporty, everyday watch. The temptation when making an everyday watch is to simplify and make more tool-like but DR instead expanded his language to include a delightfully oddball pattern to the bracelet. An incredibly fun and wearable timepiece."
Manufacturer: Daniel Roth
Year: Circa 2000s
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 157, 21 jewels
Dimensions: 32.5mm length x 31.5mm width
Longines Serie '30
"A delightfully small and enjoyable watch. The strong blue numerals stand out against the steel grey dial and case. Although I never got around to it, I think it would be great to put this on a bund strap in brown textured leather to give it an even more sporty look."
Manufacturer: Longines
Year: Circa 1997
Reference No: L7.882.4
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. L396.2, 17 jewels
Dimensions: 32mm diameter
Ming 17.09 Burgundy
"The Ming 17.09 is striking and easy-to-wear modern Ming creation. Other than the finely textured dial and quintessential Ming markings, I would pay extra attention to the crown, which is particularly beautiful in its shape and finish."
Manufacturer: Ming
Year: Circa 2021
Reference No: 17.09
Material: Stainless Steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 330.M1, 25 jewels
Dimensions: 38mm diameter
Ming 19.05
"Ming has successfully created his own aesthetic that is unapologetically space-age but backed by traditional swiss watchmaking. This series 19 watch, the 19.05, is the last of its generation. I especially love Ming's creativity with dial materials. In this piece, he has cleverly made the dial using sapphire crystal. It has a black undercoat with markings on the top that seemingly float. The Universal Bracelet, that was an optional extra for this watch, is also exceptional in comfort and fit."
Manufacturer: Ming
Year: Circa 2021
Reference No: 19.05
Material: Grade 5 titanium
Calibre: Automatic, cal. ASE200.1, 33 jewels
Dimensions: 39mm diameter
Bulgari Gerald Genta Collection, Arena Retrograde, Smiling Mickey Mouse
"The first time I saw a Genta Mickey Mouse was actually at Phillips. I thought it was brilliant, a fine timepiece with a sense of humour. This re-issue combines the charm of the originals with modern case proportions and high quality fit and finish."
Manufacturer: Bulgari
Year: Circa 2022
Reference No: 103613
Material: Stainless Steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. BVL262, 34 jewels
Dimensions: 41mm diameter
Swatch Mirror Spot Mickey
"I love the visual challenge presented by Damien Hirst's distillation of Mickey Mouse. A handful of circles in a few colours is enough to bring your mind to this important cultural icon. An excellent example of Swatch's broad appeal."
Manufacturer: Swatch
Year: Circa 2018
Material: Plastic
Calibre: Quartz
Dimensions: 41mm diameter
Bulgari Octo Finissimo “Tadao Ando” Edition
"Released after the grey/titanium, this version of the Octo has deep, subtle colours accented by a sliver of gold representing the waxing moon. If the previous Tadao Ando Octo is austere, then this is expressive."
Manufacturer: Bulgari
Year: Circa 2021
Reference No: 103534
Material: Black ceramic
Calibre: Automatic, cal. BVL138, 36 jewels
Dimensions: 40mm diameter
Bulgari Octo Finissimo “Tadao Ando” Edition
"Of all the Octos, this is arguably my favourite, an exemplar of minimal Japanese design by the hand of Tadao Ando. Notably, it is also among the few Octos that has no logo on the dial."
Manufacturer: Bulgari
Year: Circa 2020
Reference No: 103245
Material: Titanium
Calibre: Automatic, cal. BVL138, 36 jewels
Dimensions: 40mm diameter
Ressence Type 1 Slim X, Green
"I love Ressence and the Type 1 Slim wears the best for me. The Armoury's neighbour in Hong Kong was for many years a Ressence dealer and through their shop window, I watched Ressence's range develop and grow. I love their precise, colourful dial designs mixed with their organic, soft case shapes. Of their releases, this olive 10th anniversary edition is one of my all time favourites."
Manufacturer: Ressence
Year: Circa 2022
Material: Grade 5 Titanium
Calibre: Automatic, cal. ROCS 1.3, 40 jewels
Dimensions: 42mm diameter
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse
"Although the Total Eclipse is better known for the red gold version, my personal Total Eclipse is the steel version. I started the collaboration wanting to work with this ultra-black dial material and the steel version gives the purest black. These two lots, 8013 and 8014, are my gift and my thank you to the team at The Armoury for a tough few years of business. The sales proceeds of them will be split evenly among them."
Manufacturer: H. Moser & Cie.
Year: Circa 2022
Reference No: 1327-1200
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. HMC 327, 29 jewels
Dimensions: 38mm diameter
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse
"This watch (and the next one) are The Armoury's collaborations with H. Moser & Cie. It started with some very fortuitous chance meetings with Bertran and Edouard Meylan, the current leadership of the company. We worked on this design throughout Covid, completing all the work over e-mail and Zoom calls. It takes inspiration from a total solar eclipse, combining an ultra-black dial with a rim of red gold evoking the halo of the sun."
Manufacturer: H. Moser & Cie.
Year: Circa 2022
Reference No: 1327-1201
Material: Stainless steel and pink gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. HMC 327, 29 jewels
Dimensions: 38mm diameter
Naoya Hida & Co. NH Type 1B
“I met Hida-san in early 2019 in Tokyo having seen an announcement about his new watches in SJX. Handling the prototype in the metal, it was love at first sight and I put my name down for one immediately. Hida-san has since become a great friend, mentor and collaborator. I wore this watch more than any other watch these last few years. It is an exceptional piece of design work. For the auction, I asked Hida-san to replace my original dial with the latest version. The company's dial-making skills improve every year and it's very satisfying to see how many refinements they have made to their process. The original dial is also included with the watch!"
Manufacturer: Naoya Hida & Co.
Year: Circa 2019
Material: Stainless Steel
Calibre: Manual, cal. 3019SS, 18 jewels
Dimensions: 37mm diameter
Phillips Watches is privileged to present this beautiful collection from our friend and seasoned watch connoisseur Mark Cho. We have had the pleasure of working with Mark’s The Armoury for many projects, from the bespoke City Hunter 2 jackets to benefit WHO's COVID-19 fund, to a series of online stories celebrating craftsmanship and personal style. This sale marks the first single owner online sale presented by Phillips Watches and we would like to thank Mark for entrusting us for selling his incredible collection.
— Thomas Perazzi, Head of Watches, Phillips HK
I would like to give special thanks to the wonderful people who helped make this sale happen:
Phillips HK, Thomas Perazzi, Ziyong Ho, Shoyo Kawamura, Gertrude Wong, Paul Boutros, Melissa Dahl, Alex Ghotbi, Arthur Touchot, Aurel Bacs and everyone on the Phillips teams worldwide
Elliot Hammer, Max Papier, Edward Chan for all their work on photography, layout, content and editing.
Paul Croughton for commissioning my piece on Robb Report about selling the collection, and his invaluable guidance as an editor while I wrote it.
The journalists who provided generous coverage of my story.
The watch collectors who helped build my knowledge and shape my collecting.